Heading Into the Backcountry

 As I left Tuolumne Meadows, all the various trails going different directions were kind of confusing, so it was nice to finally get out and know I could look around and not worry about getting off the trail. In my head, were the thoughts "here I go, off to the wild, and no one to talk to for the next couple weeks". Little did I know just how wrong that thought was.

As I headed out, there were some remnants of the previous night's rain, some occasional sprinkles and giant clouds; mixed with the surrounding domes and peaks, it made for some dramatic scenery as I headed down Rafferty Trail.

I did spend a great deal of the 6-1/2 hours alone, but as I went passed a meadow area, I ran into a group of friends and family doing a nice 4 day loop of high-country lakes. I ended up having a great chat with 2 of them as we made the final push up to the camping area. One of the people in the group had made a good deal of money in the tech world (I would meet a great deal of folks who started their stories like that), but got sick of the crap that went with it, so quite 5 years ago. Now he travel and does volunteer work. He has travel the world, but travels to countries to explore their landscapes, not cityscape. He gave me some good ideas for what I might consider doing for my 50th birthday. The other person was a woman who had only recently taken up backpacking. When we got to talking gear, I told them the the pstlye is my very favorite new piece for 2 main reasons: 1) there sometimes hasn't been any space off trail to really squat, its either a drop off or a granite wall. 2) Since its so easy to pee, I drink more water, and that is what I attribute to no muscle pain and limited elevation issues. I should mention, she hikes in skirts so that all she has to do is lift them and squat. I really like hearing what tricks people have developed while out.

We went our separate ways at the High Sierra Camp, and I went on down the trail to find a campsite. I ended up at Evelyn Lake (10,334') after hiking about 9 miles... not bad for the first full day out.

The lake was just stunning with Vulkersang Peak in the background. I had been told that I should expect lots of people while still close in the park, but there was only one other person camping at this lake. However, there was plenty of wind! I ended up keeping the fly off my tent to keep it from tipping me over.

The morning not only brought and amazing sunrise, and prints of animals who came to drink from the lake, but also a headache. and a queasy stomach.  I wasn't to worried. Just assumed that it had to do with acclimating. I made a quick breakfast and headed toward Lyle's Canyon. The plan was to just get down to a lower elevation, and camp early and get some rest... so much for plans.

The route down was amazing, and I quickly learned that horse poop was going to be with me the whole way (that may have been the only complaint I had on the whole trip). It was a quiet day, just me and my thoughts. When I hit the stream running through the canyon, I jumped in for a quick soak, and then had some lunch and siesta.

When I woke, I felt  great! The new plan was to get to the base of Donahue Pass for the night; however, I ran into a guy doing the JMT. He was suppose to meet some guys at a campsite that was just on the other side of a wooden foot bridge... well up we go! At first we thought we were headed for the pass, but there is nothing like false summits to get you motivated. We eventually got to the bridge at the fork, and that is were I called it for the day. I was feeling good, and knew that the next day was going to be a challenge.

I ended up being the only one to stay by the river. It was so quiet and peaceful. Some deer hung with me during dinner and again at breakfast. I found some good meditation spots and got some rest. I'm happy I stayed there. I found out later that where everyone else went up to was windy is all get out.

I woke feeling great! I think the altitude and I are getting along nicely now. I still don't have an apatite, and this ends up staying with me for most of the trip. I pack up and start the climb, and what turns out to be an almost 14 mile day with 8hours and 45 minutes of hiking, with 2 mountain passes to go over.

The climb over Donahue was tough, but the views of meadows, alpine lakes,
and jagged peaks kinda just carries me over. I don't know what I expected when I reached the top, maybe people high-fiving, or a band or something... But no, a few people eating candy bars and drinking water. What I do find, is a whole new ecosystem below, so I decide to keep going and have a break down by the little stream. And I enter Ansel Adams Wilderness....

When I was younger I studied photography, and Adams is probably the one that fed my passion for black and white as well as my desire to find the places he photographed. As I passed Thousand Islands Lake, I could sense that I was getting close to something. When I arrived at Garnet Lake, I knew for sure that this was the land Adams photographed, and here I camped, and dreamt, and relaxed into that rhythm that comes to me when I've started to shrug off the demands of "modern" life.

playing with the fish-eye setting

home is where the tent is

front porch sittin

at the crossroads and meeting up with the JMT

the pass I am headed toward

the long awaited foot bridge

I really love to camp next to streams

home

and up

time to get wet

the more logs i crossed, the more my confidence grew

yup that is the trail... tasty

Sierras Here I Come!!! Part I

Hello, I know its been awhile since I have written much. Its not for a lack of things to write about, but more along the lines of too much inspiration this summer and not knowing where to start. Soon I will write about some amazing people I've encountered and thoughts I've thunk, but here I want to start sharing some of the experiences I had while gone from the co-op for a whole month! That's right! Somehow this kid was able to take a month off work and just be. Originally, a friend and I were going to hike the John Muir Trail (220 miles form Yosemite to Mt. Whitney), but she had to make some other choices so I got to change plans too!

At first I was going to go ahead and do the trail on my own, but I quickly decided that since I had never been to the Sierras before, I wanted to take some time and explore... So this is the start of that exploration.... I will break this adventure into several segments...

I talked to some friends that have spent a good deal of time in the Yosemite, Kings Canyon, and Sequoia National Parks to come up with some ideas. Then I picked up some maps and books about hikes in the areas, as well as looked at where I was most likely to get a wilderness permit... then I put off leaving for 1 day so that I could visit with friends coming to town! I booked a train ticket for Yosemite, and started gathering supplies.

I had most of the gear I needed already, just borrowed a bear canister from a friend, and then worked on the food thing. My original plan was to be out for 3 weeks. If I was doing the JMT, there are a couple resupply places that I could buy or send things to, but I had decided to wing it on the wilderness permit, so I didn't really know where I would be when. Plus, I figured that there really wouldn't be many vegan options besides roasted nuts and potato chips. The option I decided on was to fill the bear canister with as much food as possible and pick up stuff where I could. I got 3 weeks worth of food in that sucker!

One of the biggest topics people ask me about is food, so here is a list of most of what I took to consume: dried black bean mix, dried split pea soup, miso powder, some pasta, soy curls, freeze dried veggies, vitamin mineral greens by Health Force, recovery by Vega, lots of nuts (cashews, walnuts, pistachios), dried fruit (mango, pineapple, apple, peaches, coconut), dandy blend, macca, hemp protein powder, roads end cheeze powder, some electrolyte drink mixes, chocolate, salt, pepper, garlic powder, cinnamon, oh some dried blueberries (fresh pick about a week before I left, some heirloom tomatoes that I dried, and raw biota olives! I think that was most of it. Early on I kinda lost my appetite, and didn't eat all of that food. The liquid meals took good care of me as well as making little sandwiches with the tomatoes and olives.

So I got all packed in my little pack, took the van to where it stayed with some friends (and got a friendly ride to the max station) to head off to Amtrak

 

view from the train

We got on the train and they had overbooked it, so a bunch of us had to just take our stuff and go to the observation lounge. It was actually super comfortable, and gave us all something to start talking about. And we had amazing views all the way until the sunset and we couldn't see anything...the sun rose, and there was more beauty. All-in-all I was on a train or bus for right at 24 hours by the time I arrived in Yosemite valley. I met some great people, slept horribly, but was so happy! I couldn't believe I was actually, finally, in Yosemite Valley for the first time ever! It was a little overwhelming. The granite walls, the Merced river, the trees.... the beauty just took my breath. 

I got over to the permit office to see what I could get... and I essentially got just what I wanted. I had decided that I wanted to start in Tuolumne Meadows and take the JMT trail to Red's Meadow (in Ansel Adams Wilderness) then follow another trail to these hot springs I found, then return roughly the same way, and then hike back down into Yosemite Valley. That is basically what I got the permit for (and for 20 days), but instead of going straight out via the JMT, I got to take a little detour to Vogelsang via the Rafferty Creek trail. I couldn't believe that it was that easy! The ranger guy was so helpful and great making sure that I got a permit for the next day so that I could stay in the backpackers camp that night.

I had a couple hours to hang in the valley before the shuttle up to Tuolumne, so I just explored the valley a little, went to the visitors centre and the Ansel Adams store thingy, and just sat breathing in the fresh air, and waited for the shuttle.

On the shuttle I met this super great father and daughter duo that just finished a 4 day backpacking trip together. They were so fun to talk to... and inspiring. The kind of inspiring where I kept reflecting on them throughout the hike. 

We were told that, due to the fire outside of the park, some weather patterns have been odd, and sure enough about half way to Tuolumne a crazy hale storm started. It was coming down so hard and thick that cars were pulled over. The slush on the roads was super thick. Somehow it all stopped as I got out and headed toward the campgrounds. I was so exhausted, that I just set up my tent, ate some olives, tossed everything into the bear box, and went to sleep.

 the sun starts to set as I walk to the campgrounds

The backpackers camp was super full of people doing the JMT, so I just kind of hung back while they did their thing. I made my morning elixir and took it to Tuolumne river and watched the sun move over the domes. As I walked around I got more and more use to the idea of starting this adventure. I was no longer at the 500 feet above sea level, but now 8500 ft and only going up from here. I was also awakening to the idea that once I started, things were not ever going to be the same. Something was shifting inside me and I felt excited. I prepared to head out for my first full day on the trail. It was a day that would take me 8.9 miles and my tent would be set up at 10,633 feet. This is also the day that began what I hope to be a long love affair with Tuolumne Meadows.