Making Friends and Sliding Into Red's Meadow

I awoke from the little nook of Garnet Lake feeling great! Today's events were looking mostly down-hill, after going over a little pass.. As I was packing up, a guy passed by me, stopped and asked my opinion about his pull to have some meat at the Red's Meadow Saturday BBQ . His entire family is either veg or vegan, and we was having some internal struggle. I made some comment of listening to his body, and he moved on. However, we met back up at the edge of the lake for a little breakfast break and water refill. Tony, the meat conflicted guy, and I had a really great conversation on food and consciousness. A little later a young guy came by, Levi, and we all headed out for the day. The three of us spend most of the next couple days together, chatting about all kind of topics; from food to politics, religion, and economics. We all came from very different backgrounds with different ideas, but we were able to listen to one another. These two men were great companions and pulled me along on what ended up to be a little over 14 miles.

As much as I was enjoying our morning conversation, once we got over the hump of the lakes, I took some time to myself. It wasn't long before I started passing all these people with small little day packs. It had been days since I saw day-hikers. Many of these hikers were also older, in their 50s or 60s maybe. Soon I struck up a conversation with a group studying a large boulder covered in the California stone, Serpentine. Many people base camp at Shadow Lake, and then day hike to Thousand Island and Garnet lakes. How exciting! I had thought that to return to these lakes, I would have to re-do this hike. Not a horrible idea, but I thought that there must be another way, and sure enough. I later found that there are many ways to get back to this area, and still using public transportation to get to trail heads!

The day was just an un-ending day of glorious views and changing landscapes. For a moment I was on the East side of the Sierras, so it was dryer and arid. The changing plants, trees, and animals is fascinating. The back to the West side where the water tends to be greater. I love watching the subtle shifts in the environment. It is part of what keeps me moving, slows my pace, and keeps me in the moment. It can be so easy to think about the next section, what to prepare for, where to camp, when to eat... but what I am able to stay present, I can hear my body and mind tell me what I need, when to take a break, when to stop and listen to the wind or water or birds.

Eventually I make it to the big up of the day. About half way up the long switchbacks, I meet back up with Tony and Levi and we get one another up and over the pass. Tony is still being motivated by the BBQ, Levi is 19 and just excited to be on his first backpacking trip (both are doing the JMT). As we move through the day, we leap frog with a couple guys from Israel. They had lost the third person in their group. They kept talking about the food that he had in his pack (mostly the tahini) and how well it would go with the food in their packs. As we got closer to Devil's Postpile and Red's Meadow, our 2 groups merged and became one fun crowd. Tony is a great conversationalist and got both guys talking about their families and where their families are from prior to moving to Israel. Tony had his own story of the diaspora from India when he was young. The sharing of stories and relatedness was fascinating.

When we finally stumbled away from the tourists of Devil's Postpile and into the welcoming arms of Red's, we found the third member of the other party and everyone celebrated the reunion. I dropped my pack and went in to get a cold beer to join in the cheer. I was afraid I was just going to have limited options of Bud or Coors, but hell no! I had an amazing selection, and coming from a Portland beer snob, that is saying something! I picked out a Red IPA and a bag of salty potato chips. Our friends from Israel jumped on the last shuttle to Mammoth Mountain to get some supplies, and the rest of us shared a cabin, showered, and went to the grill for dinner.

Years ago, when I had finally made the decision to move to Portland, I ran into Portland people everywhere I went. In fact, when I went to Peru, I ran into Portland folks several times. And here at Red's I met some people that I knew from the Co-op. There were 2 women hiking the JMT together, and as we were chatting about food together (all of us finally talking to people eating somewhat similarly to each other), we realized our connection. We swapped ideas and passed on some treats.

Some fun things that happen at Red's is the kind of gathering of folks that have met on the trail since starting all the way back in Yosemite. People check in with how things are going, what is working, what's not, adjusted plans, and lots and lots of smiles. At most all the resupply spots, there are backpacker barrels where people can drop of supplies they don't need, and pick up what others are leaving behind. You can find things ranging from fuel canister, sun screen, and lots and lots of food. Sometimes you can tell who dropped off what, by what languages are on the packages.

I took a layover day here. I tried to go into Mammoth Village with the others, but just getting to Mammoth Mt. was too much, so I ate some fries, stocked up on energy bars, and purchased a warmer jacket, before returning to Red's to write some postcards. I met a couple from Taos that night in the grill, and we all hung out in the backpackers campgrounds sharing stories and plans.

In the morning we all said our good-byes, exchanged info, and headed our separate ways. As much as I enjoyed the company of one and all, I was ready for quiet as I headed toward Fish Creek trail. The plan was to get to Iva Bell Hot Springs for 3 days of meditation and soaking. It's a 13. 3 mile hike off the busy path of the JMT and PCT and thought it might not be too hard to get some quiet time. It took getting past all the day hikers going to Rainbow Falls first before I got some solitude.

A little note to people who are day-hikers who rarely get out... take lots of water and know where you are going! I passed so many people who were going the wrong way from the falls to return to the shuttle. Some had gone as far as 40 minutes in the wrong direction! Once I got passed all that, I was just in wonder of the barren landscape. A fire had raged through the area a few years before, so all the trees kind of looked like match sticks. Then there was just walking on bare granite before returning back into the woods. It was a long day and pretty dry. I only passed a couple groups of people. One group was a large collection of young people moving really slow. One of them had gotten injured and they were all doing a great job at keeping their pace and moving slow. They all seemed in good spirits and just fine with taking their time making sure they all got out together.

Once I got settled, I was content with not moving for 3 nights!

Rainbow Falls

looking forward to meeting this water later

finally the water i saw fall... snack time

little trails of rocks mark the trail

there they are

down yonder is where i am headed

crossing the stream

view as the sun changes position

stream nearest the campsite

a soaking spot

ahhhhh

Just Some Pics

me up and over Donahue Pass

meadow stream moves into the forest

what a lovely trail

so this is an early view of thousand island

a view of all the little islands of the lake

oh the lakes!

a great place to take a rest

afternoon moon view at garnet lake and i fall in love

and i fall in love with this place and moment

over another pass

up, that's a trail

water falling

taking a break at ruby lake

lots of alpine lake love here

devil's post pile marks the final push of the day

playing with the fisheye lens again

this is an amazing  and rare geological area

we made it! cold beer here we come!

Heading Into the Backcountry

 As I left Tuolumne Meadows, all the various trails going different directions were kind of confusing, so it was nice to finally get out and know I could look around and not worry about getting off the trail. In my head, were the thoughts "here I go, off to the wild, and no one to talk to for the next couple weeks". Little did I know just how wrong that thought was.

As I headed out, there were some remnants of the previous night's rain, some occasional sprinkles and giant clouds; mixed with the surrounding domes and peaks, it made for some dramatic scenery as I headed down Rafferty Trail.

I did spend a great deal of the 6-1/2 hours alone, but as I went passed a meadow area, I ran into a group of friends and family doing a nice 4 day loop of high-country lakes. I ended up having a great chat with 2 of them as we made the final push up to the camping area. One of the people in the group had made a good deal of money in the tech world (I would meet a great deal of folks who started their stories like that), but got sick of the crap that went with it, so quite 5 years ago. Now he travel and does volunteer work. He has travel the world, but travels to countries to explore their landscapes, not cityscape. He gave me some good ideas for what I might consider doing for my 50th birthday. The other person was a woman who had only recently taken up backpacking. When we got to talking gear, I told them the the pstlye is my very favorite new piece for 2 main reasons: 1) there sometimes hasn't been any space off trail to really squat, its either a drop off or a granite wall. 2) Since its so easy to pee, I drink more water, and that is what I attribute to no muscle pain and limited elevation issues. I should mention, she hikes in skirts so that all she has to do is lift them and squat. I really like hearing what tricks people have developed while out.

We went our separate ways at the High Sierra Camp, and I went on down the trail to find a campsite. I ended up at Evelyn Lake (10,334') after hiking about 9 miles... not bad for the first full day out.

The lake was just stunning with Vulkersang Peak in the background. I had been told that I should expect lots of people while still close in the park, but there was only one other person camping at this lake. However, there was plenty of wind! I ended up keeping the fly off my tent to keep it from tipping me over.

The morning not only brought and amazing sunrise, and prints of animals who came to drink from the lake, but also a headache. and a queasy stomach.  I wasn't to worried. Just assumed that it had to do with acclimating. I made a quick breakfast and headed toward Lyle's Canyon. The plan was to just get down to a lower elevation, and camp early and get some rest... so much for plans.

The route down was amazing, and I quickly learned that horse poop was going to be with me the whole way (that may have been the only complaint I had on the whole trip). It was a quiet day, just me and my thoughts. When I hit the stream running through the canyon, I jumped in for a quick soak, and then had some lunch and siesta.

When I woke, I felt  great! The new plan was to get to the base of Donahue Pass for the night; however, I ran into a guy doing the JMT. He was suppose to meet some guys at a campsite that was just on the other side of a wooden foot bridge... well up we go! At first we thought we were headed for the pass, but there is nothing like false summits to get you motivated. We eventually got to the bridge at the fork, and that is were I called it for the day. I was feeling good, and knew that the next day was going to be a challenge.

I ended up being the only one to stay by the river. It was so quiet and peaceful. Some deer hung with me during dinner and again at breakfast. I found some good meditation spots and got some rest. I'm happy I stayed there. I found out later that where everyone else went up to was windy is all get out.

I woke feeling great! I think the altitude and I are getting along nicely now. I still don't have an apatite, and this ends up staying with me for most of the trip. I pack up and start the climb, and what turns out to be an almost 14 mile day with 8hours and 45 minutes of hiking, with 2 mountain passes to go over.

The climb over Donahue was tough, but the views of meadows, alpine lakes,
and jagged peaks kinda just carries me over. I don't know what I expected when I reached the top, maybe people high-fiving, or a band or something... But no, a few people eating candy bars and drinking water. What I do find, is a whole new ecosystem below, so I decide to keep going and have a break down by the little stream. And I enter Ansel Adams Wilderness....

When I was younger I studied photography, and Adams is probably the one that fed my passion for black and white as well as my desire to find the places he photographed. As I passed Thousand Islands Lake, I could sense that I was getting close to something. When I arrived at Garnet Lake, I knew for sure that this was the land Adams photographed, and here I camped, and dreamt, and relaxed into that rhythm that comes to me when I've started to shrug off the demands of "modern" life.

playing with the fish-eye setting

home is where the tent is

front porch sittin

at the crossroads and meeting up with the JMT

the pass I am headed toward

the long awaited foot bridge

I really love to camp next to streams

home

and up

time to get wet

the more logs i crossed, the more my confidence grew

yup that is the trail... tasty